It is time for the next installment of highs and lows. In the categories of best Flying God Statue; Railway Bridge; Hike; Pagoda; and Elevated House, as well as best Cave, and Mausoleum – here are my picks for the Hanoi region of Vietnam:
Flying God Statue: To very loosely paraphrase an extensive and impressive legend – more than two thousand years ago, Vietnam was being seriously threatened by a neighbouring king. The prediction was that an invasion would occur in about three years. When this indeed happened, the leader of Vietnam sent messengers throughout the land, in search of a prophesied general who would fight off the invaders. In a small village, a three year old boy named Giong, who had yet to begin to walk or talk, upon hearing the call, spoke up asking for an iron horse and sword. When these were provided, he transformed into an armoured giant on a fire breathing horse, and he went immediately to the battle lines and defeated the invasion. With his purpose fulfilled, he returned home and put his sword down on Soc mountain, and then flew on his horse up into the sky. The statue on that spot today is a rallying point on the 6th-8th days of Lunar New Year to commemorate Saint Giong and hope for abundant harvests and happy lives. We ventured well out of Hanoi through the countryside, and then did most of the ascent of Soc mountain on motorbike. Once at the top, we joined the joyous crowd having picnics, saying prayers, and playing carnival games (ex. throw a quill to pop a balloon, walk blindfolded and hit a drum.) It was a great way to kick off a new month.
Railway Bridge: Years ago, I actually worked for a railway, so it was with both excitement and anxiety that I explored the Long Biên Bridge. Much like on ‘Train Street’ in Hanoi, lined with coffee shops and bars no more than six feet from the train track, the bridge has no clear separation between a rushing train and the motorbikes and pedestrians on either side. So it is very scenic and a known spot for sunset photos, with a sense of danger that comes from more than just looking through slats at the river far below. The fact that the bridge is over 100 years old and frequently described as dilapidated, adds more character and more uncertainty about its safety. But if the local guides say, “let’s take some photos!” then..well…here they are:
Hike: The karst formations of Ha Long Bay in my previous post, have some inland cousins – in Ninh Binh. After a two hour drive from Hanoi, we emerged into a part of Vietnam that used to be the capital and the home of kings. Much like the weather on my boat trip, the day in Ninh Binh was overcast, and a little spooky – adding more ambiance to the dragon that met me at the base of the staircase up one of the karst formations. Was he welcoming me or discouraging me? And did the step builders not even try to make the risers the same height?? Well, I made it up, where there was yet another dragon (?!) and I took in the gorgeous view.
Pagoda: Much of the week of Tết seemed to include rituals and prayers in front of public alters and statues in various temples and pagodas. All of them were surrounded by piles and piles of offerings, including a tower made of canned beer and some very elaborately carved pieces of fruit. As I became more fascinated by them, and the recurring theme of storks standing on turtles, I became more confident in finding my own moment of stillness sending messages of hope for a healthy new year for me and my family, followed by three bows. I had heard that one of Vietnam’s most iconic Buddhist temples was in Hanoi – the One Pillar Pagoda. The architect and engineer in me was intrigued, and the spirit in me was curious for yet another place to make a call to the universe. Though a replica (because the original from 1049 was destroyed during the war in 1954 – come on France, did you have to do that?), it really is a pillar in the middle of a lotus pond, with a small covered alter on top. Having to ascend stairs to reach this alter was part of its charm, and then maintaining some patience was part of the challenge as stillness fought with bus loads of tourists trying to get the best photo. My favourite photo of the pagoda includes a young monk in prayer, that took a while to get because of the crowds, but this is how I want to remember it.
Elevated House: Any fan of Frank Lloyd Wright, will want to see where Ho Chi Minh chose to live in Hanoi. Instead of the grand presidential palace, he had a small, wooden Stilt House built near a pond on the same grounds. Per the brochure, the house “symbolizes his living way of simplicity, modesty, gentleness and dedication for the nation and the people.” The wood, the horizontal lines, the built-in furniture, the blending of indoor/outdoor – I would have loved living there!
Cave: I do like a good cave to log in a ‘low’. With tall karst formations, come eroded limestones caves, so there are many in both Ha Long Bay and Ninh Binh. Near Ninh Binh, we had a chance to sit in row boats, and coast along the Ngô Đồng River, going through Tam Cốc (Three Caves) – or rather going right under the hills and out the other side. If that weren’t impressive enough, the women rowing the boats, did so with their feet!
Mausoleum: Near the Stilt House, is the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. I am categorizing it as a ‘low’ because under the watchful eye of honour guards, the President’s embalmed body is dimly lit in a sunken room. As a visitor, I was looking downward as I walked along the edges of the room – acutely aware of the rules of maintaining silence, no pausing, and no photos. I felt a weird mix of awe at the depth of his legacy and of awkwardness at what I suspect a modest man did not imagine would be his resting place. It was a brief, but powerfully curated moment, to reflect on an amazing leader and the strength and health of the country he envisioned.
That’s the list. I hope you feel some sense of the natural and built beauty of Northern Vietnam. Cảm ơn!